After each prostration, sweats from the head, face and body of Venerable Ren Da (仁炟法师) penetrated the highway, small path or dirt track. For each grain of sand, there was the sweat of the old monk. The arduous pilgrimage journey of more than 800 km, spanning 3 provinces, is expected to take 5 months to complete.
During the recent two months, the temperature of Northern China rose and it became rainy and dusty. We could not imagine the hardship experienced by Venerable and his three attendants under the scorching sun, burning roads, rainy nights, windy and stormy conditions.
1.An ascetic practitioner
Ven. Ren Da of Zhengjue Temple, Shandong Province, who is more than 60 years-old is emulating asceticism practiced by ancient distinguished monks by performing three-step-one-prostration from his temple to Wutai Mountain, a distance of more than 800 km. Many people may ask: Doesn’t the practice of asceticism contravene with this modern materialistic world and information technology age?
Ven. Ren Da is of the opinion that genuine Buddha-dharma transcends time and space and will not be swept into oblivion. Ven. Ren Da said asceticism is part of genuine Buddhism. He cited the example of the famous monk, Mahakasyapa, who was foremost in asceticism during Buddha’s time and who was praised by the Buddha. Monks in ancient time focused on dharma cultivation; but modern people prefer to enjoy life. The significance of practicing asceticism in the present time should be viewed as an important way to train our perseverance, persistence, tenacity and tolerance, without which great wisdom and enlightenment cannot be gained. Despite his old age, he vowed to play his part in revitalizing Buddhism in the country by performing three-step-one-prostration to Wutai Mountain.
Ven. Ren Da picked 21st day of the Second Chinese lunar month, 2005 which was also the birthday of Samantabhadra Bodhisattva to formally start his three-step-one-prostration to Wutai Mountain. He laid down strict rules for his journey. The rules were: To practice asceticism; Not to receive any money or donation along the way; Not to enter a lay Buddhist’s house, restaurant or hotel; Not to stay overnight in any hotel or guest house. It was later proven that Ven. Ren Da practiced what he preached; along the whole journey, he stuck to and observed all the rules he laid down.
2005年4月30日,法师一行在河北省小洋村午休
Ven. Ren Da and his team had the lunch break in Xiaoyang County,
Hebei Province on 30/04/2005
During the three-step-one-prostration to Wutai Mountain, Ven. Ren Da and his attendant followers, more often than not, ate, rested and slept by the roadside, under a tree or an open wild field. On some lucky occasions, they would take shelter in a ruined or abandoned building / hut.
On 29 April, 2005, Ven. Ren Da prostrated and entered Jin County of Hebei Province. The highway, under the heavy pressure of vehicles, was broken here and there and there were potholes everywhere. There was only grass but no tree at the roadside. The sun was scorching and the pungent smell was choking, yet Venerable continued with his 3-step-1-prostration most meticulously, prostrating from one pothole to the next. His forehead would touch a stone when it met one; would touch a pothole when it met one; and would touch a muddy patch when it met one.
遇到坑洼就在坑洼里叩头
Prostrate in muddy ground
After the first two months of the three-step-one-prostration pilgrimage, the journey became even more tough and challenging. He had to perform the prostration on burning highways, under the scorching sun, endure the choking toxic gases emitted from the heated tarred roads and his face was swollen as a result of the hot wave and toxic gases. Under such severe conditions Venerable insisted to prostrate for more than 10 hours a day. Such prostration was extremely difficult even to a young guy, but Venerable who was 64 years old just did it fearlessly, without any regrets or complaints to demonstrate the Buddha-Dharma through his very own actions. His steps were firm and steady. His prostration was at ease and with grace.
2. A bitter journey of culture
The average educational level of Venerable and the three attendants who followed in the three-step-one-prostration pilgrimage is very high indeed. Ven. Ren Da was previously a professor-level senior engineer. The other three namely Brother Yang Guo is a graduate, Brother Li Jun is an undergraduate and Brother Li Yaufeng is a technician with an oil field. Given their high educational attainment, the journey was a cultural shock to the three attendant followers.
2005年4月14日,仁炟法师行进在S321国道上
Ven. Ren Da was marching on S321 Highway on 14/04/2005
For every step, Ven. Ren Da chanted the six-word mantra “Om Ma Ni Pad Me Hum” and for every prostration he made, he chanted “Paying Homage to Triple Gems from Ten Directions and Three Worlds” (南无十方三世一切佛法僧三宝). Ven. Ren Da also insisted on the daily recitation of the “Diamond Sutra”, morning and evening prayers. He even wanted his three attendant followers to chant “Om Ma Ni Pad Me Hum” 10,000 to 20,000 times a day. Wherever they stayed and whenever they had the opportunity, they would teach local believers to chant “Om Ma Ni Pad Me Hum”. The chanting of names of Buddhas and Bodhisattvas was non-stop 24 hours a day, sowing seeds of Dharma along the journey.
朝山途中,师徒四人每天坚持诵经做功课
Venerable and his disciples insisted on chanting sutras
as daily practice during the pilgrimage
Thus, the team of four was really a mobile temple. Along the way, the names of Buddhas and mantra were floating in the air to benefit all sentient beings. The old Venerable vowed that along the 800 km from Zhengjue Temple to Wutai Mountain, he would invite all the beings from different unwholesome realms to come to the Hall of Bodhisattva Kishitigarbha (Earth-store Bodhisattva) at Zhengjue Temple and to cultivate there so that they could be liberated too one day.
A group of 8 devout Buddhists from Shenzhen, moved by Ven. Ren Da’s asceticism, emulated him and performed three-step-one-prostration at a temple in Shenzhen on the 8th day of 4th Chinese Lunar month which was also the birthday of the Buddha. After prostrating for four and a half hours that day, they really had a good experience of what Ven. Ren Da went through.
After that, one of the 8 participants in Shenzhen related: “My body started to disobey my orders after performing the three-step-one-prostration for just two hours. I had difficulty in lifting my legs, I felt giddy when I raised my body and started to feel agitated. I kept on telling myself that I must accomplish the task because I am young. Ven. Ren Da is already 64 years-old, yet he can prostrate for almost 12 hours a day and to date, he has already done it for 55 days. At last, after enduring the dust, pungent smell of exhaust fumes emitting from passing vehicles, I finally reached the destination. I was completely exhausted after the journey and my body was aching for the next 2 days. My prostration was for a single day and for four and a half hours only. Venerable has to prostrate for about 5 months, more than 10 hours per day. How can the aged body of Venerable bear all the pains and sufferings?”
师父说:“朝山,是对自己的考验,要有毅力,要坚持到底!”
Venerable said:” Mount pilgrimage is the challenge for us,
we should have perseverance and stick it out.”
The female participant called Ven. Ren Da to ask whether he felt tired and exhausted or not? How did he treat the foul and pungent smell along the way? Could his body withstand all these? Venerable replied, “My body is of blood and flesh too just like yours. Of course I feel very tired. But I have to go forward. There is no turning back, although the journey ahead is far and the mountain is high. It is a test of our endurance and persistence. Don’t worry! Buddhas and Bodhisattvas will be with us. We will arrive at our destination, Wutai Mountain, safe and sound. “
Upon hearing these words from Venerable, tears flooded her eyes. She said she was proud of her teacher, Ven. Ren Da, a determined, great and marvelous old monk.
3.A mobile religious site
“The fundamental teachings of Buddhism are compassion and wisdom. Buddha is someone who has gained total enlightenment. After gaining that great wisdom, the Buddha informed others what He has discovered. Buddhism is concerned with the education and propagation of universal love and wisdom. The Buddha-dharma is suited for this world as everyone in this world longs for love and everything needs to be handled with wisdom“. Ven. Ren Da preaches that and practices that.
朝山用的大三轮车和小三轮车
Big and small tricycles accompanied with Venerable
in mount pilgrimage
A three-wheel cart, 2 meters in length, was specially made and donated by Sister Wang Fanghui of Zhou Village. During day time, it served as a mobile kitchen and storeroom, complete with cooking utensils. During night time, it was turned into a bed for Ven. Ren Da when a piece of plank was placed on it. It acted as a mobile religious site in the 800 km pilgrimage. Wherever it went, the sound of Dharma followed. What a unique scene!
The pilgrimage troupe caused a stir and curiosity wherever it went. Frequent questions asked included: “What are you guys doing?” “Where are you from?” “Where are you heading?” To answer these questions once and for all and to promote the pilgrimage journey, a devotee at a particular location volunteered and made some colorful banners with words “Zhengjue Temple of Shandong” and “Pilgrimage to Wutai Mountain” written on them and hung the banners on the big and small carts.
在朝山途中弘扬佛法
Giving Dharma teachings on the way of mount pilgrimage
Once, a bus driver stopped his vehicle beside the troupe and offered them a free ride to the next destination. One of the attendants, Bro. Li Yaufeng politely turned the offer down and explained, “Our master has vowed to perform three-step-one-prostration from Zhengjue Temple to Wutai Mountain. Along the 800 km, not a single step can be reduced; not a single prostration can be saved.” The bus driver and the conductor gave them a thumbs up and said, ”You are wonderful!”
One afternoon on April 23, when Ven. Ren Da and his team were performing three-step-one-prostration near Ling County, a black limousine coming from the direction of Lingyi pulled up. A middle-aged man and two teenagers alighted from the car. The middle-aged man paid homage to Ven. Ren Da. When Ven. Ren Da asked him what was the matter, he pointed at one of the youngsters and said, “He is my son and I am an employee of Shengli Oil Field. I passed by you and your group four times for the last few days. I was deeply touched by your spirit and determination in performing three-step-one-prostration. I purposely brought my son here today to meet you and pay homage to you so that he could learn the spirit of persistence, perseverance and determination from you.”
途中一位中年男子带着儿子给法师叩头,让孩子学习法师的精神和毅力
During the pilgrimage, one middle-aged man and his son
kneed down and prostrated to Venerable and let the kid
to learn the spirit and perseverance of the master.
Many people, mostly non-believers of Buddhism, were deeply touched by the highly disciplined and dedicated 64 years-old monk who performed three-step-one-prostration for 12 hours, covering a distance of about 10 km a day. May be it was the first time in their lives to see such a prostration, their hearts and souls were shaken by such high moral and dignity of the old monk and started to get interested in Buddhism. Many of them had a new appreciation and understanding of Buddhism. Many also took the opportunity to educate their children on the spirit of fearlessness, tenacity and perseverance.
您用滾燙的血汗,融化心靈的冰川;
您用聖潔的佛號,播灑智慧的甘泉。
您用虔誠的頭顱,折服愚人的我慢:
您用衰老的身軀,耕耘眾生的福田。
您用智慧的火把,燒掉業障和邪見:
您用精進的腳步,踏破火海與刀山!
——題記
目送著仁炟法師一行遠去的背影,我的身心似乎逐漸分離了——身在紅塵繭殼中,心飛雲外拜佛去。溝通凡與聖、鏈接身與心的紐帶,當是這些蜿蜒三千里的公路、土路或山路了。仁炟老法師三步一叩朝拜五臺山,每叩一個頭,頭上、臉上、身上的汗水都會滲透在路上。綿延三千里、橫穿三省份的朝聖路啊,每一粒砂石都撒滿了老法師的血汗。詩人說,「踏花歸來馬蹄香」,很是浪漫,但在我看來,則是「血沃中原肥勁草,寒凝大地發春華」,這些普普通通的道路,因為經受過法師的叩拜、浸潤著聖者的血汗,而變得神聖、莊嚴、高貴起來,令人不敢不敬畏。
近兩個月來,華北地區的氣溫升高,雨水增多,沙塵彌漫,而且白天和夜晚的溫差很大,中午地面溫度高達五十多度、烈日下、熱路上、風沙中,雨夜裡。老法師和三位護法要經受著怎樣的苦辛和熬煎。我想像不出來。祇是,每天走在上下班的路上,我的眼前總有法師虔誠叩拜的身影,人物依稀,景色依舊。
一、苦行的頭陀
朝山千古事,天地一頭陀。朝山,又稱為拜香,是歷代高僧大德歷境煉心、自覺覺他的一種修持方法。如虛雲大師朝拜五台,誠感文殊親救護,成為千古佳話。
如今,山東博山正覺寺仁炟法師效法祖師楷模,以花甲高齡千里朝山,無疑是一種振興佛教的行為,也是一種濟世利人的苦行。可是,一說到苦行,普通人固然不理解,很多教內人士也不以為然,認為苦行是外道的修行法,佛教主張中道而不提倡苦行。很多人由此產生疑問:在科學技術日益發達、物質生活異常豐富的信息時代,提倡和實踐頭陀苦行不是很背時嗎?
仁炟老法師認為,真正的佛法是超越時空、永不過時的!之所以正法時代得道者多,像法、末法成道者少,原因在於古人重視修道,今人重視享受:古人捨身求法,今人重身輕法:古人吃苦耐勞,今人好逸惡勞。因此,修習頭陀苦行在今天更具有重要的現實意義。
頭陀行不是外道,而是正道。佛陀在世時,大迦葉尊者專修苦行,年紀老了仍不捨苦修。佛贊嘆說:「你可以作一切眾生行為的榜樣,正如我在世一般。有人像你一樣修苦行,佛法就可以住世保存;如沒人修苦行,佛法就要滅亡。你真是荷擔如來正法的人啊!」
仁炟法師深有感觸地告誡弟子說:「現代人很重視並提倡挫折教育,挫折教育在佛教中稱之為「苦行」,雖然方法和程度不同,但目標基本一致,即所謂艱難困苦,玉汝於成,現在科學昌明、物欲橫流的現代社會,修苦行更顯重要:無論出家在家,男女老少,修一段苦行,無疑是人生的寶貴財富,也是成佛的必經之路。此所謂忍人所不能忍,行人所不能行、在逆境中磨練意志,陶冶情操,消除業障,啟發智慧。從苦行中體會諸行無常、諸法無我、常寂我淨,此乃大智慧、大福德、大因緣,非局外人所能知也。」因此,法師特意選在大行普賢王菩薩聖誕的日子,即農曆二月二十一日起香。
臨行前的十天裡,仁炟法師每天都在山東博山正覺寺裡,觀音殿、地藏殿之間三步一叩拜幾圈,進行熱身鍛煉,為長途跋涉做準備。二十一日上午七點半,在正覺寺觀音殿舉行朝拜五臺山起香儀式中,仁炟法師宣佈,山途中持金錢戒(即不受信眾金錢供養)、不進百姓家宅、不進酒店、不住旅館,修頭陀行。後來的事實證明,老法師言行一致,嚴淨毗尼,所有戒律都一一做到了。
朝山途中,法師一行的齋飯、午休和宿營多數是在路邊、樹下或野地裡進行的,而且又是晴雨無定、冷暖無常的季節,一路的清苦可想而知。用楊國師兄的話說就是:「疾風、驕陽、曠野樹,西北望五台,茫茫不知處:熱路、砂石、身投地,回首年邁人,濁淚迷雙目!」
四月廿六日中午,在從陵縣至德州的途中,楊國和李兆豐在路邊找到了一間被遺棄的小破屋,沒有窗框,祇有一個小土炕。兩人把房子打掃乾淨,生火做飯。師徒四人在房子裡共進午餐,免受了風沙之苦。仁炟法師詼諧地說:「叫化子住進了金鑾殿!」飯後師父在小土炕上甜甜地睡了一覺,算是享受了一下。
四月廿九日,老法師拜進了河北衡水的景縣。道路雖然是黑色的瀝青路面,但似乎不堪過往車輛的重壓,四處殘破龜裂,坑坑窪窪,凸凹不平。有的地方坑有一尺多深,汽車行駛時都小心翼翼地選坑淺的地方走。承載輜重的「大棚車」,(即人力三輪車)一不小心就會撞爛車輪。路邊有草無樹,烈日暴曬,濁氣逼人。仁炟法師仍然是三步一叩,一絲不苟,從一個坑拜到另一個坑,碰到石頭就在石頭上叩頭,碰到土坑就在土坑邊叩頭,碰到泥窪就在泥窪裡叩頭。
從三月三十日起香至今,已有兩個多月了。如今天氣炎熱,風沙肆虐,仁炟法師一行面臨著更加嚴酷的考驗——中午強烈的太陽、五十多度滾燙的地面、瀝青馬路暴曬後散發出來的有毒氣體,嚴重威脅著老法師的身體健康。在惡劣的環境中,老法師依然堅持每天叩拜十多個小時,拜程一十餘里,眼瞼被路面的高溫和毒氣灼燒得腫脹起來……這對一個年輕人來說,也是一種對體力、耐力和毅力的極限挑戰,何況老師父已有六十四歲高齡,顯然是在現身說法,以頭陀苦行來渡化眾生,創造了生命的奇跡。誠可謂大願大力大無畏,甘灑熱血覺有情!
二、文化的苦旅
仁炟法師三步一叩朝拜佛教聖地五臺山,跟香的居士有三位。師徒一行四人,總體文化水準不低:仁炟法師是上世紀六十年代的大學本科生,教授級國家高級工程師,楊國是上世紀九十年代的本科生,李軍是新世紀初的大學生,李兆豐是勝利油田的技師。因此可以說,這次拜山壯舉是真正意義上的文化苦旅。
一路禮拜,一路汗水,一路聖號,一路經聲,這是仁炟法師對此次拜山的概括和要求。老法師每走一步路,念一聲六字大明咒「唵嘛呢叭咪吽」;每叩一個頭,念一聲「南無十方三世一切佛法僧三寶」。老法師每叩一個頭,頭上的汗水都會印在路上,佛號神咒就會飄灑空中,利益有情。因此說,這支拜五臺山的隊伍,本身就是一個流動的道場,一個無相的壇場,一路上為六道眾生播灑著清涼的甘露法雨。
在艱辛勞苦的山途中,「仁炟法師不僅自己身體力行、佛號不斷,一步一句「唵嘛昵叭咪吽」,堅持每天持誦《金剛經》和早晚課誦。而且要求三位跟香的居士每天誦一萬至兩萬聲六字大明咒。他們在哪裡宿營,就教導那裡的施主和眾生持誦六字大明咒……
仁炟法師雖然是六十四歲的老人,但是在朝拜聖地五臺山的路上,他的步伐堅定而穩健,他的禮拜從容而莊嚴。法師每叩一百二十個頭為一段路,大約五百五十米到六百米左右。每拜完一段路,師父要在路邊坐在拜凳上休息五至十分鐘。每次休息時間,都要「出食」,即往路邊螞蟻窩旁灑一些饅頭屑,同時念誦變食真言、普供養真言、迴向偈,一路度化沿途的生靈。
老法師曾經發願:從山東博山正覺寺到五臺山,三千里朝山途中所經之處的一切孤魂野鬼、有情無情、幽冥界眾生,悉皆聞法得度,先到博山正覺寺地藏殿中修行,等待超度。
整個朝山途中,念佛機持誦聖號,每天廿四小時不間斷,上午念「南無觀世音菩薩」,下午和夜裡念「南無阿彌陀佛」。朝暮課誦雷打不動。師徒四人手捧《佛教念誦集》圍坐上課的場面,成為滾滾紅塵中一道最耀眼最動人的風景。
友一行八人,相約三步一叩朝拜弘法寺。他們感慨著:一位六十四歲的老人,每日三步一叩近十二個小時,已經持續了五十五天。
在歷時四個半小時的朝山過程中,他們品嘗了師父的酸甜苦辣。其中一位這樣寫到:「大約叩拜了兩小時,我的身體就開始不聽話,步伐沉重,起身時眼前發黑、心中煩躁……我不斷給自己打氣,師父每天都拜十幾個小時,而我這麼年輕,一定要堅持拜到山頂……汽車一輛一輛從我身邊呼嘯而過,揚起的塵土和刺鼻的汽油味兒比疲憊更難以忍受。我屏住呼吸,咬著牙,一邊持誦「南無本師釋迦牟尼佛」聖號,一邊向山上叩拜,時光長長路長長,似乎看不到盡頭::朝山回來,我又睏又乏,全身酸痛了兩天。打電話給師父,問師父累嗎?睏嗎?如何對待廢氣和塵土?身體受得了嗎?……」
仁炟法師告訴她說:「我也是血肉之軀,每天要拜十多個小時,祇睡五、六個小時,也累也睏呀!每當休息下來時,我全身的肌肉就會不受控制,神經性地顫抖,抖動的心慌。一天下來,到了晚上,李軍幫我揉一下胳膊和腿,幫助放鬆一下,但還是很累呀!有一次拜至生產橡膠輪胎的一段路,行人都用手捂住鼻子走,徒弟們也說氣味太難聞了,受不了!而我卻是跪在地面上磕頭,呼吸到的毒氣比他們更多更濃烈。至於汽車的尾氣、工廠的廢氣、瀝青公路的化學毒氣就更不用說了,每天都要面對!……但那又怎樣,路還是那麼遠,山還是那麼高,退後不前嗎?這是對自己的考驗,要有毅力、要堅持到底。放心吧!師父有佛菩薩加持一切都會平安無事。
這位佛友流著眼淚聆聽師父輕描淡寫的講述,心中顫動著:「這就是我引以自豪的恩師!師父確實了不起、很有毅力、很棒!」
不經一番寒徹骨,焉得梅花撲鼻香。如今老法師現身說法,一心正念,在三千里朝聖路上,雖歷盡艱難,猶生歡喜,每每藉境驗心,愈辛苦處愈覺心安,因此悟到古德所謂「消得一分習氣,便得一分光明;忍得十分煩惱,便證少分菩提」的真諦。正如一位居士所禮贊的那樣:
仁慈悲願,德相莊嚴,三寶弟子同禮拜;
達證菩提,圓照法界,六根清淨始見山。(注:此為嵌字聯「仁炟拜山」)
三、流動的道場
佛教的本義是慈悲和智慧。佛是徹底覺悟宇宙真理的人,這是智慧:自覺之後再去覺他,把宇宙和生命的真相如實告訴眾生,這是慈悲。可見,佛教就是關於愛心和智慧的教育,與治生產業不相違背:佛法不但與世間法毫無矛盾,反而有助於社會,有利於世人:因為人人都需要愛心,事事都需要智慧。——仁炟法師如是說,亦如是行。
朝山用的大三輪車是周村王方慧居士特製並供養的,車廂長兩米,車廂內裝行李、炊具。白天是流動的廚房和倉庫,晚上是在裡面鋪上木板,即是仁炟法師的床鋪。我們管它叫「大棚車」。在三千里朝聖路途中,它象一個流動的道場,所到之處,法音宣流,法雲呈瑞,成為一道獨特的風景。
朝山隊伍所到之處,經常引起當地群眾的好奇、圍觀和詢問。提得最多的問題是:「你們幹甚麼?」、「從哪裡來,到哪裡去?」為此,鄒平的耿傳俊居士特別製作了三條「山東博山正覺寺朝拜五臺山」的紅緞子綬帶和「正覺寺簡介」、「朝拜五臺山」彩繪說明,分別固定在大、小三輪車的車棚上,讓人們一看便知。既為朝山作了宣傳,也給人們帶來了許多方便。
「請你們師父上我的車,一分錢不要,把你們拉到德州去!」4月21日中午,一輛開往德州的公共汽車突然停在正在叩拜的仁炟法師旁邊。司機探出頭來,對跟香的李兆豐說道。李兆豐微笑著向司機表示感謝,解釋說:「三步一叩朝拜五臺山,是我們師父發的大願。從山東博山正覺寺到山西五臺山,一步不能少走,一個頭都不能少叩。」汽車司機和售票員聽後,同時豎起了大拇指:「了不起!」
四月廿三日下午,仁炟法師一行拜至陵縣附近的時候,一輛黑色的小轎車從臨邑方向追過來,停在路邊。轎車裡走出一位中年男子和兩個十歲左右的少年。那位男士給師父頂禮。師父問他有甚麼事情,男士指著其中一個少年說:「他是我兒子,我是勝利油田臨盤探油公司的職工。幾天來我已經四次開車在師父身旁經過,師父三步一叩的精神和毅力太令人感動了。所以今天我特地帶兒子來拜見師父,讓他從少年時代就要學習師父這種不怕吃苦、持之以恆的精神和毅力,」
「桃李不言,下自成蹊」在朝山的路上,很多本來不信佛的人看到法師行持嚴謹,品行高潔,道德高尚,以六十四歲高齡每日叩拜12個小時,長達二十里路,深受感動,也許他們平生第一次見到這樣的場面,心靈為之震撼,因此萌發向佛之心,重新認識佛教文化。更多的則是抓住機會教育自己的孩子,讓孩子們學習出家人吃苦耐勞、不畏艱險的大無畏精神。